The Engchoon Kuala Lumpur History Gallery
The dietary habits of a people are closely related to their living environment. As the saying goes, “Each place nurtures its own inhabitants.” The people of Engchoon, who live in mountainous areas, have little natural exposure to rivers and lakes, so they are not skilled in fishing. Apart from the few who engage in commerce in urban areas, most rural inhabitants work in rice farming, with forest development becoming an important occupation for the people of Engchoon.
Because they work in the farms, laboring in open spaces with some distance between each other, they naturally developed the habit of shouting to communicate, hence the loud way of speaking among Minnan people, which contrasts with the more refined speech of the Chaoshan people. This behavior is a result of their living environment.
Due to the necessity of physical labor to earn a living, the harsh way of life forces most Minnan people to live frugally. This frugality is evident in their diet. The dishes on a Minnan dining table, whether meat or vegetarian, are mostly stewed or braised with broth. When served in a bowl, the first action is to spoon some broth over the rice. Even if the portion of the dish is small, the rice can still be eaten with the broth. For large families, this cooking method with broth is a way to ensure everyone gets enough to eat under tight economic conditions.
Braised pork or duck is popular in Minnan households because in the times without refrigerators, it could be preserved for several days. The braising liquid could be poured over rice, making a delicious and economical meal, which suited the lifestyle of farming and laboring families. During the times of poverty, a few drops of soy sauce could turn plain congee into a flavorful and filling meal.
Additionally, Minnan people have a habit of eating congee at noon on hot days. This is because laborers often have a poor appetite in the midday heat, and congee is easy to digest. Moreover, cooking congee requires less rice than cooking plain rice, which helps conserve the rice supply.
The Minnan practice of eating congee with pickled vegetables is another example of their frugal lifestyle. Common pickled vegetables include “caipu,” a daily food made from pickled white radish. Other popular accompaniments for congee are salted vegetables and fermented tofu. These items are inexpensive and easy to eat; just a small amount can flavor a bowl of congee. This way of living was not unique to Minnan people but was also common in rural areas of Fujian and Guangdong during the times of material scarcity. It is believed that this lifestyle, passed down through generations, reflects the wisdom of their ancestors.
From the perspective of Engchoon people, we can see the dietary culture of the Minnan region. Similarities can also be observed from the viewpoints of Nan’an, Dehua, and Anxi. In coastal fishing villages like Jinjiang and Hui’an, white radish and salted vegetables might be replaced with dried small fish. “Living by the mountain, eating from the mountain; living by the sea, eating from the sea.” Much of our common sense about life today comes from the wisdom passed down by our ancestors. Below is an explanation of the representative foods most commonly eaten by Engchoon people and their connection to the local economy.
Shiitake Mushroom Meatballs
Bang She Gui (Turtle Cake)
Carefully made from glutinous rice and green beans, it is shaped like a turtle. The outer layer is tender, and the filling is sweet, crumbly, and fragrant. Although the filling is simple and economical, this food is an indispensable offering for rituals, not only appearing generous but also showcasing sincerity.
Shu Fen Geng (Sweet Potato Flour Cake)
A taste from the memories of Engchoon people, Shu Fen Geng, when paired with dried shrimp and scallions, can be stir-fried into a mouth-watering, economical, and delicious dish with simple ingredients.